Platinum Guild International (PGI) has highlighted the Tùsaire collection, created by Scottish-American jewellery designer Maeve Gillies using 3D-printing technology, as the first platinum-based collection of its kind to be launched commercially.

The Tùsaire collection is named after the Scottish Gaelic word for “pioneer” and features jewellery, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, made from platinum and titanium.

“We needed to put 3D printing of platinum to the test, to identify the advantages and challenges, in the hope of expediting the technology’s application in making precious jewellery and its ability to create novel designs and experiences. There is no doubt additive manufacturing will be very important for the future of jewellery as it unlocks so many new possibilities,” PGI CEO Tim Schlick explained at OriginalLuxury’s fifth roundtable event in Geneva, Switzerland, in May.

While 3D printing is already an established technology for jewellery production, the launch of the Tùsaire collection demonstrates the decorative, scale and structural potential for 3D-printed platinum jewellery, PGI stated.

For example, the 3D printing and precious metal powder technology used enabled the crafting of intricate, unique shapes, such as lattices, hollow structures and detailed textures, that would be impossible to achieve otherwise.

“We are just beginning to understand how platinum can create new emotional and practical value in 3D printing, not only through how it looks, but how it is made, owned, and experienced,” Schlick said.

“This moment marks a pivotal opportunity for platinum to redefine its role in luxury through creativity, cross-sector collaboration and future-ready innovation,” OriginalLuxury and OriginAll cofounder Margot Stuart added.

“As most of my work is in diamond bridal jewellery fabrication, I learned through experience that platinum is the ideal bridal metal due to its strength, resilience, and suitability for diamond design innovation. For this 3D-printed jewellery collection, my knowledge of platinum was invaluable in allowing me to design new solutions with the printing technology, helping to transform platinum into new jewellery looks and categories,” Gillies explained.

The direct metal printing of the platinum pieces was completed by Italy-based company ProGold, which uses metal laser powder bed fusion and other technologies to develop and produce parts from precious metals for a range of industries.

“Due to platinum's high tenacity, strength and high melting temperature, it enables the highest quality of structural integrity with precise heat control. Its good light absorption and low reflectivity also make platinum a comparatively energy-efficient metal for printing with lasers. Platinum’s metal attributes are superior for processes like laser powder bed fusion, and we found the best of platinum’s strength and shine are optimised by direct metal printing,” PGI innovations and product development director Tai Wong said.

The technology allows platinum to be forged into new types of jewellery by enabling the creation of larger silhouettes that were previously impossible because platinum is traditionally a heavier, denser, and more expensive metal. However, platinum’s current price makes it more affordable than gold.

“This is such an interesting time in the industry because technologies are coming in thick and fast. At the same time, craft has never been more important for people to preserve and understand the process and the possibilities of new materials and new ways of expressing and pushing more towards what platinum can do,” Gillies said.